Growing Guides

Botanical Name: Abutilon x hybridum
Family: Malvaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen shrub
Size (HxW): 30-60cm x 30-60cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same depth as in the pot with roots spread just below soil surface, see above for spacing. Closer for a more immediate effect.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, protect from hot afternoon sun.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Half hardy, protect while young. If you get hard frosts it is best that they are protected.
Water: Water to establish, then only if rainfall is low. Don’t forget it takes plants around 4-6 wks for their roots to penetrate out into the surrounding soil where they can gain better access to nutrients and water, so you need to water regularly.
Fertiliser: As they establish, ideally you could add some fertiliser and mulch in spring to keep them looking good.
Flowering Time: Year round, predominantly spring to autumn.
After Flower Care: Quick to grow, responds well to pruning, winter is the perfect time for this as flowering slows.
Notes: A nice feature shrub, hedge or potted plant. They don’t have a super long life (five years) but they will usually produce offspring to succeed their throne without you having to lift a finger. The flowers are edible.

Botanical Name: Achillea ptarmica
Family: Asteraceae / Compositae
Plant Type: Semi Evergreen Perennial
Size (HxW): See plant label.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below soil surface. Space 30-50cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. Not too fussy but needs good drainage.
Aspect: Full sun to light shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes around 4-6 wks of regular watering, for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil. Then you only need to top up if rainfall is low during active growth, they are quite dry tolerant once established but tend to flower better with a little moisture.
Fertiliser: Add a general purpose fertiliser when you see the new growth. They actually seem to prefer poor soil, so don't go too overboard.
Flowering Time: Late spring to autumn
After Flower Care: Regular dead heading will extend the season, cutting spent flower stems back to the base. Or cut back to half midsummer and lightly apply a well balanced fertiliser, you should have a second flush of blooms in no time. At the end of the season, the spent flower heads can make an attractive winter feature, especially when covered in frost. Cut flowers can be dried.
Notes: Ensure good air flow around the plants to avoid mildew. Avoid open, windy spots as the tall stems may flop in harsh weather. Mulch in winter. Keep protected from aphids. Propagate by division, divide every three to four years in spring/autumn. Can self seed, these are easily removed or shared.

Botanical Name: Osteospermum ecklonis
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 20-50cm x 20-70cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil. Space 20-50cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -5C
Water: Water to establish, this takes 4-6 wks of regular watering, then keep moist during flowering to ensure the best show.
Fertiliser: A regular application of liquid fertiliser once a week during flowering and they will go nuts! You could also use a slow release once a month. Of course they will flower without it, but this recipe will get you the best results - fertiliser is particularly important if you are growing them in pots.
Flowering Time: Spring to winter
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to promote more blooms, and keep the plants tidy. You can do this a couple different ways: 1. Cut back to half early summer, after the first flower flush begins to wane, then add some fertiliser, this will keep the bushes compact and encourage a resurgent rebloom. 2. Regularly cutting blooms.
Notes: The flowers last well in a vase. Great in gardens or pots. If you get prolonged frost, it is a good idea to mulch or you may need to treat them as annuals or take cuttings. They overwinter with ease here in the Dandenongs.

Botanical Name: Agastache aurantiaca
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 60-120cm x 40-60cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot, see above for spacing, closer for a more immediate, full effect.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil, they are not too fussy.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, better flowers in full sun.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then you only need worry if rainfall is low, impressively dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: Add a little well balanced fertiliser early spring.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: To encourage more blooms you can dead head regularly during flowering. Alternatively, as the first flush begins to wane in summer, cut back to half and add some fertiliser, it will soon be in bloom again. Allow to stand in the first winter, and then cut to the ground annually winter/early spring before the new growth emerges to maintain a healthy, bushy plant.
Notes: The foliage is aromatic, so plant where you can brush against it and enjoy it. Divide in spring as necessary. It is a good idea to protect new foliage from slugs and snails. Flowers and foliage are edible.

Think warm and well drained for best success with Alliums.
Botanical Name: Allium aflatuenense
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type: Bulb
Size (HxW): 30-40cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: 7-20cm deep (2-3 times the diameter of the bulb) and 10-30cm apart (see width above) they like a bit of space to move. We suggest planting your bulbs amongst summer perennials that will emerge mid to late spring as they can help hide the fading foliage.
Soil: A sandy soil with a little blood and bone, compost and lime dug through before planting is heaven for them. It is essential the soil is well drained as they tend to rot in boggy soils.
Aspect: Full Sun – at least six hours. As the stems of some Allium are tall, they should be sheltered from strong winds.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, then it is only required if rainfall is low during active growth. Keep relatively dry during dormancy.
Fertiliser: Use a well-balanced, organic fertiliser annually in spring when they begin their growth, this is a good time to fertilise gardens in general.
Flowering Time: Late spring to summer
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and foliage once they begin to look untidy. Seed heads can be left on and will remain decorative. Unlike most bulbs, next season's flower is formed when the bulb is in leaf, before they flower, so there is no need to remove the flower head. The leaves can be removed as soon as they yellow. Seed is viable and takes 3-6 years to flower.
Notes: They are best left to naturalise in the garden – this means you can leave them in the ground for years. Don't forget to mark their position (we use wooden kebab sticks) as you don't want to put a spade through one! It is normal for the foliage to yellow and die as the flower stem is growing, for this reason we recommend you plant them amongst perennials – or remove the leaves once the flowers begin to bloom as they no longer serve a purpose to the plants growth. The flowers are edible.

Botanical Name: Aquilegia x cultorum
Family: Ranunculaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 50-60cm x 30-40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant where the roots meet the stem with the roots spread below the soil surface. See above/plant label for spacing.
Soil: A well drained, humus rich, moist soil is ideal but they are quite adaptable.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. They will need more water if in full sun. A lightly shaded to morning sun position will encourage the blooms to last longer.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hard
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then keep moist during active growth. Dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: An all purpose fertiliser in early spring and in summer.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to tidy. Prune to the ground late autumn or allow natural senescence – they tend to disappear pretty quickly and look good moments before they disappear.
Notes: Plant in a lightly shaded position for longer lasting flowers. Remove the first flowers at the base of the stem to encourage more blooms. The second round can be left on to drop seed for future generations. The seedlings may differ from the parent plant as they hybridise easily. If the foliage becomes untidy and stretched in summer, you can cut it back, add some fertiliser, then it will reshoot and remain handsome into autumn, you might even get an extra flower or two. Plants will last for many years in cool climates. In warmer climates, plants may need to be replaced every few years.

Botanical Name: Aster hybrid
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 40-50 x 40-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot, with roots spread evenly below the soil surface, see above for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. They don't like to be cold and wet, so good drainage is important.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, needs six hours to flower well.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, 4-6 wks of regular watering for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, then you only need worry if rainfall is low. Water regularly in pots, don't forget, potting mix is perfectly drained.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn.
After Flower Care: Cut off spent flowers and remove dead and dying foliage.
Notes: After the first year, cut back to the ground each winter – when they begin to look untidy – this will help them look lovely and bushy. Ideally water well then mulch for spring and summer. They make great cut flowers. Keep an eye out for powdery mildew, though this plant has great resistance and avoid by ensuring the plants have room to grow. This Aster can be short lived so allow seed to fall or collect for future generations and divide every three years or so to keep them vigorous. Watch out for slugs and snails with new foliage.

Botanical Name: Astilbe simplicifolia
Family: Saxifragaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 30cm x 25cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant where the roots meet the stem with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Space 30-60cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist soil is ideal. Acid to neutral PH is preferred but not demanded.
Aspect: Semi shade to bright light. The dark foliage means it is more sun tolerant than most Astilbe. Full sun (with afternoon protection) will be tolerated in cool climates if the plants are kept well watered, but if they dry out they are unlikely to flower and the leaf edges will go crispy. In too much shade they won’t flower well and become straggly.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water to establish and then keep moist in active growth. Be sure to keep moist in warm conditions. With water, the foliage can remain into autumn.
Fertiliser: Apply a general purpose fertiliser once the plant starts to shoot in spring, and again in summer. You could add a dry mulch and some well rotted manure or compost over winter, they revel in compost rich soils so fertilise well in poor soils.
Flowering Time: Sum-Aut
After Flower Care: Brown flowers can be removed to tidy or left on the plant for their ornamental value. Removing the flowers will not encourage more blooms. If you choose to leave the seed heads on through winter, cut right back in early spring.
Notes: Flowers suitable for picking. Add a little mulch in summer to help retain moisture in the soil. Dig and divide every 3-4 years in spring to keep your plants vigorous. Replant only the new rhizomes toss the old woody ones. Rabbit and deer don’t bother these plants.

Botanical Name: Laprocapnos spectabilis.
Family: Papaveraceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 50-60cm x 30-80cm. ‘Valentine’: 60-90cm x 60-90cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant with the crown of the plant at soil level, at the same level as in the pot, dig the soil deeply prior to planting. Space 30-80cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil ideal.
Aspect: Performs best in filtered light. Also morning sun or part shade.
Climate: Cool to Temperate.
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water in well, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate the surrounding soil. For best effects, keep the soil moist and cool, during active growth. Applying a mulch will make this easy! They don’t like to sit in water so it is best to ensure the drainage is adequate.
Fertiliser: Use a complete fertiliser applied annually in early spring.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Cut spent flowers right back to encourage more blooms. You can give it a mid season hair cut after flowering to refresh the gorgeous foliage – if kept moist it can remain into autumn.
Notes: Keep slugs and snails away. Flowers suitable for picking. Best in a cool spot.

Botanical Name: Bletilla striata
Family: Orchidaceae
Plant Type: Rhizomatous perennial
Size (HxW): 20-40cm x 20-30cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant with the rhizome lying flat 5-10cm under the soil surface. Space 20- 40cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, away from the hot afternoon sun. In warmer climates, part shade is better. They also grow well in filtered light.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes around 4-6 wks, then only if rainfall is low spring/summer during flowering. Keep relatively dry during winter dormancy.
Fertiliser: A slow release, general purpose fertiliser early spring. Or a liquid fertiliser every 2-3 weeks during flowering in pots.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to tidy. Allow foliage to die back before removing.
Notes: Suitable for potted planting. They tend to flower best after a cold winter. To pick, simply pull stems, they last well in a vase.

Botanical Name: Blackberries: Rubus fruticosis. Loganberry: R. loganobaccus. Raspberries: R. idaeus x R. hybrids. Tayberries: R. fruticosus x ideaus.
Family: Grossulariaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen
Size (HxW): 150-250+cm x 150-180cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant 10-15cm deep and space 150-180 cm apart, Boysenberries 250cm apart. Provide them with a trellis to grow on. Raspberries only need one or two support wires, while the heavier brambleberries are better with two or three. A good structure will provide you with good crops. The posts need to be strong enough to tension the wires, and around 2m tall. If you run a wire on both sides of your posts you can tuck rather than tie your canes which makes it easy. Rows should be 30-40cm apart.
Soil: Well drained, moderately fertile humus rich soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full sun to light shade. Face your rows north to south, this will give them more sun. If possible, shelter from the hot afternoon sun and drying winds.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean – better fruit with cold winters.
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish then keep moist in flower and fruit. If you let them dry out while they are flowering or fruiting you will have a poor harvest.
Fertiliser: They are gross feeders, apply a well balanced fertiliser when the plant is in flower and fruit. An equal mixture of potash and blood and bone (adding a manure will help to mulch too) is ideal. Add a compost mulch in autumn and straw in summer.
Harvest Time: Summer to autumn. Don’t expect much in the first year, they take a season to settle in and establish roots.
After Flower Care: Young plants will produce a lot of canes, initially thin them out to around ten per plant.
Blackberries, Boysenberries and Youngberries:
Top prune in summer to encourage branching. Prune out old canes in winter to promote healthy growth. Tie the remaining canes loosely to the trellis wire.
Loganberries: In winter, remove the weak and dead canes off at the ground that have already produced fruit. Leave around ten, strong growing, mature canes for next season’s crop. An old tip is to identify the canes that need pruning at the top of the stem, cut them half way down, then once you are at ground level, they are easier to identify.
Tayberries: Water well in their first year to establish. Best supported on wires (the fruit is abundant and heavy), each plant will grow into a space of around 4 sq m. Ripe berries can be eaten from the bush and will store for a day or two. They can be frozen too.
Raspberries: Raspberries tend to renew themselves. If you plant them in a row, they will shoot from the crown. Remember they are heavy feeders so lots of well composted manures and blood and bone are good. ‘Autumn Bliss’: After you have harvested the last fruit, cut the stems to the ground, they grow and fruit in one season so you don’t need to do any fancy pruning. They are known as Primo Cane varieties. ‘Chilcotin’, Tayberries and ‘Heritage’ will also flower on first year canes. ‘Heritage’: An ever bearing variety so choose which pruning method you would like based on when you would like to harvest.
Notes: Mulch for water retention and to keep the soil free of weeds. During fruiting, use nets to protect from birds. If you are growing them in pots it is a good idea to re-pot annually with fresh potting mix. Raspberries don’t like to be exposed to wind so give them some protection. No pruning required in the first year unless there is a dead or diseased branch. Pests such as aphids, thrips and caterpillars can be controlled by hand or with a pyrethrum based insecticide. Yates Bug Gun is a low toxic insecticide. Should any fungal diseases affect the plants, spray with a suitable fungicide – there are lots of home recipes on the internet or in the neighbourhood!

It is best to wait until the threat of frost has passed before planting into the garden.
Botanical Name: Zantedeschia elliottiana
Plant Type: Tuber
Size (HxW): 20-60cm x 20-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant the tubers into damp soil around 10cm deep (you could plant a little deeper to 15cm in warmer climates to protect them from the heat) with the ‘eyes’ (rough side) facing up. If you are unable to find the eyes, simply place tuber on its side, it will right itself. Plant 20-50cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Half hardy. If your ground freezes hard, it is a good idea to lift them in late autumn.
Water: Basically, they are happy so long as they aren’t cold and wet or hot and dry. Wait until they sprout before you begin watering, and then keep moist in active growth. If Calla Lilies dry out, it may trigger dormancy and you won’t see them again until next season – this is more likely to happen in pots where they have limited access to water so be sure to keep your containers moist in active growth.
Fertiliser: Add a well balanced fertiliser winter/ spring. Adding liquid fertiliser fortnightly during summer growth is beneficial for flower production. If grown in pots, fertilise and water more regularly. They use a lot of energy to produce a lot of flowers so need the fuel to thrive.
Flowering Time: Summer. In warm zones they may spot flower year round.
After Flower Care: Cut off spent flowers and yellowed leaves to tidy.
Notes: They can be grown in pots and tubs. Flowering at their best may take a few years, as they do not like their roots disturbed. It is a good idea to guard the foliage against slugs and snails who find the new growth delicious! The flowers are excellent for cutting. Calla Lilies can be left undisturbed for many years. As required, rhizomes can be dug late autumn or winter if necessary. To divide them, cut into pieces, ensuring each piece has a growing eye. Allow the ‘wound’ to heal, storing in a dry, airy position and then replant. Some cultivars have bigger tubers than others. So if you purchase more than one variety, their size may vary, there is no need to be concerned, they are all of good flowering size and it won’t necessarily mean one will have more flowers than another.

Botanical Name: Carex oshimensis
Family: Cyperaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen grass
Size (HxW): 30-50cm x 50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots evenly spread below soil surface. Space 50cm apart, a little closer for a more immediate effect.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal. In pots use a good quality mix.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes 4-6 wks of regular watering, then only if rainfall is low during active growth. They should not be allowed to sit in water over winter.
Fertiliser: A light application of a well balanced fertiliser in spring, while establishing or if soil is poor.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and foliage to tidy, you could just run your gloved fingers through.
Notes: If the foliage becomes tired, you can cut it back to around 5cm and it will quickly grow new leaves.

Botanical Name: Akebia quinata
Family: Lardizabalaceae
Plant Type: Semi Evergreen Climber (Evergreen here in Dandenong Ranges)
Size (HxW): 3-12m x 30-200cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Spacing will depend on how you are growing your plant. You can let it ramble as a ground cover, or provide it with something to climb e.g. obelisk, pergola, shrub.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. They don’t like disturbance so are best in a permanent position.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade or filtered light. Protect from the hot afternoon sun, they are woodland plants
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -10C. Late spring frosts could damage flowers/foliage but they bounce back quickly.
Water: Water in to establish, this can take 4-6 wks of regular watering. Once they have settled in you only need to worry if rainfall is low, they really are quite self sufficient.
Fertiliser: In poor soils a light application of an all purpose fertiliser in spring. They aren’t heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: A light prune to tidy/control growth.
Notes: If they are cross pollinated (with a different seedling/variety/clone) then the flowers can be followed by edible fruits. Hand pollination is the most effective method. Seed is viable, cuttings are slow to establish.

Botanical Name: ‘Lemonicious’: Citrus x limon. ‘Sublime’: C. aurantifolia.
Family: Rutaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen shrub
Size (HxW): ‘Lemonicious’: 100-150cm x 80- 100cm. ‘Sublime’: 150cm x 100cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same depth as in the pot with the roots spread below the soil. Space 80-100cm apart.
Aspect: Full sun to light shade
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water in well to established, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate and gain access to the moisture and nutrients in the soil. Once they have settled in they are more dry tolerant. In pots water regularly, especially when in fruit/ flower.
Fertiliser: Add a citrus fertiliser in autumn and spring as per directions on the pack for pot/ garden. They have shallow feeder roots that can be mulched after fertilising.
Flowering Time: Spring/autumn, harvest summer to autumn. Spot harvest and flowering year round.
After Flower Care: Prune as required.
Notes: In pots use a premium potting mix and a decent sized container with good drainage holes. Consistent moisture and regular liquid fertilisers are especially important in pots. The healthier you keep your plant, the more fruit it will produce so it is worth looking after them. They appreciate good air flow, this is important with placement and pruning.

Botanical Name: Jackmanii: Clematis x jackmanii. Viticella: C. viticella.
Family: Ranunculaceae
Plant Type: Deciduous Climber
Size (HxW): Width varies with growing method, see plant label for specific HxW.
Depth & Spacing: These Clematis are still small and need to establish a decent root system before they can flower their best. Some argue it is best to plant into a large pot (20cm or more) for the first year and then into the garden – this will depend on your conditions – if they are ideal you needn’t worry but if your soil is poor or you get hard frosts it may help give them a better start. Plant at the same depth as in the pot, or a centimetre or two lower, with the crown just below soil level. It is best to dig the hole a little deeper, Clematis have deep roots so this will enable them to better penetrate the soil and settle in. Ensure roots are well covered. Give plenty of room to grow and something to grow on – they can twin around something under a centimetre – wire, obelisk, string etc.
Soil: Well drained, fertile and humus rich soil will give the best results.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. Clematis like their ‘heads’ (tendrils) in the sun, and their ‘feet’ (roots) cool.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate and gain access to the moisture and nutrients in the soil. Keep moist in growth, for best flowers. They have a large root system to establish.
Fertiliser: Feed during winter, with a well balanced fertiliser or any well rotted animal manure plus potash. In summer it is beneficial to add a thick layer of mulch, keeping clear of the main stalk to help keep the roots cool.
Flowering Time: See plant label.
Pruning: We recommend adding water and fertiliser after pruning. Pruning groups and methods listed below. While most Jackmanii are Group 2, because of parentage, some give better results using the Group 3 method, they have been noted below.
Group 1: Includes early flowering Clematis that are evergreen or deciduous. This group flowers winter/spring on the previous year’s growth (old wood). Regular pruning is not required, but you can, remove spent flowers or shape or train or remove weak/dead branches in mid to late spring after flowering has finished and there is no risk of frost. If they have become overgrown you can cut them right back to the base but you will lose the next seasons blooms. (C. montana, C. alpinia, C. cirrhosa, C. macropetala, C. armandii, C. cartmanii).
Group 2: Includes large flowering deciduous Clematis that flower mid season spring/ summer on the previous year’s growth (old wood). They often repeat bloom in summer on new wood - if they flowered double in spring/ summer, often the second round of blooms will be semi double or single. In summer, give a light prune removing spent blooms back to the growth bud as the flowering wanes then fertilise to encourage more blooms. In late winter/spring remove dead or weak growth from the base as required - be careful not to prune too hard or you will lose your flowers. You can choose the renovation method with this group - leave them unpruned for 3-4 years and then cut back to 30cm in late winter. You will miss out on a few flowers that season but if you don’t have the time for annual pruning it is not a bad compromise. (C. jackmanii, ‘Viva Polonia’)
Group 3: Includes late flowering Clematis that bloom summer-autumn, have large flowers, are deciduous and flower only on the new season’s growth. They need to be pruned hard (back to the lowest pair of buds) in late winter/early spring. If they have become an untidy mess of branches, you can cut them back to 30cm from the base. It won’t take long for new shoots to appear. If you would rather leave the seed heads on you can prune out a few branches each year from the base. (Viticella group, C. florida and C. integrifolia, ‘Rouge Cardinal’, ‘Taiga’, ‘Hagley Hybrid’, ‘Grunwald’, ‘Ville de Lyon’, ‘Sweet Summer Love’, ‘Plena’, Golden Clematis).
Group 2/3: Some Clematis will respond well to pruning methods from group 2 or 3. Here you maintain the plants framework while selectively cutting some stems back to the base. It will keep the plant in check and you will be able to have a longer flowering season.
Notes: These impressive bloomers need some support to grow on. Often they will flower twice, some varieties don’t take a break, flowering from spring to autumn. Clematis usually take around three years to establish and flower to potential.

Botanical Name: ‘Golden Buttons’: Cotula coronopifolia. ‘Two Hair Buttons’: C. sericea. ‘Bristly Buttons’: C. hispida.
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Evergreen Perennial
Size (HxW): See plant label.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot. Be gentle with the root system as it is sensitive, don’t worry about teasing it out. Space 20-30cm apart
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich well and freely drained.
Aspect: Full sun to part shade.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Tender
Water: Water to establish, it takes 4-6 wks for the plant roots to access the moisture in the soil, then only if rainfall is low during active growth.
Fertiliser: Fertilise well during spring and summer to encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. You can use any complete fertiliser you have.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Prune to keep the plant tidy.
Notes: In the right conditions this plant will spread to form a clump.

Botanical Name: Blackcurrant: Ribes nigrum Red: R. rubrum.
Family: Grossulariaceae
Plant Type: Deciduous shrub
Size (HxW): 1-1.5m x 1-1.5m
Depth & Spacing: Plant 10-15cm, if you look on the stem you will see the previous depth, plant around 5cm deeper. Space 1.5-2m
Soil: Well drained, moderately fertile to humus rich soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full sun to light shade. Face your rows north to south, this will give them more sun. If possible, shelter from the hot afternoon sun.
Climate: Cool to Temperate
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish then keep moist in flower and fruit
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser in late winter, then mulch to help reduce weeds.
Harvest Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Prune during dormancy, from late autumn to winter. The new fruit grows on young wood, so only prune out the old branches, to encourage new shoots. Also cut out any wiry, unhealthy or low growing branches. You should aim for 6-10 strong shoots. Once plants are established, you should prune heavier, but in the establishing stages go lightly.
Notes: Suitable for growing in large containers (a 20” pot is good), repot every 2-3 years. Ideally add some well rotted manure to the soil a week or two before planting.

Wait until after frosts to plant the tubers in the garden. An easy way to remember is to plant them in the ground two weeks either side of Melbourne Cup day. You can pot them on/up at any time.
Botanical Name: Dahlia x hybrida
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Tuber
Size (HxW): 20-80cm x 20-60cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same depth as in the pot, be gentle with the tubers as you move them. A 20-30cm pot would be ideal and give a nice, full display.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. Improve poor soils with some well rotted manure/compost prior to planting – Dahlias are hungry plants. Choose a good quality potting mix in containers.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Half hardy
Water: Keep moist in active growth. Pay particular attention if you are growing them in pots; watering regularly, especially in hot weather, this is because potting mix is perfectly drained, so dries out quickly.
Fertiliser: Dahlias grow quickly and flower abundantly so are heavy feeders, we recommend applying a well balanced fertiliser prior to planting. If they are left in the ground each year, top dress in winter and summer. A tomato fertiliser is a good choice.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn (December to April as a rough guide) though they often flower longer and this can be dependent on climates. Potted Dahlias tend to flower earlier.
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to encourage further flowering. If your ground freezes, or the soil remains damp during their dormancy we recommend you lift them every year. Store tubers during winter in a dry airy position. Plant again anytime from June to November (unless your ground freezes). Tubers left in soggy ground may rot. If you are growing them in pots, simply place the pot under an eaves/shed and bring them out again as they shoot.
Notes: When the plants have finished flowering, cease watering, to allow the tubers to mature.

Botanical Name: Daphne x transatlantica
Family: Thymelaeaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 60cm x 60-90cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot. Be gentle with the root system as it is sensitive, don’t worry about teasing it out. Space 70-120cm apart (remember they are slow growing so closer for a more immediate effect).
Soil: Well drained, humus rich soil is ideal, they like their roots kept cool. If they are left to sit in water, they tend to rot.
Aspect: Full sun to part shade. Morning sun is ideal but these varieties handle the sun well without scorching.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it will take around four weeks for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, then water as the plant dries out, especially if in a pot. Over watering can cause the roots to rot, an indication of over watering is leathery, limp leaves.
Fertiliser: A well balanced fertiliser when in flower.
Flowering Time: Late winter to autumn
After Flower Care: Not really required, but if you would like to prune, do so after flowering.
Notes: In an exposed position, to help keep their roots cool, it is a good idea to mulch for summer. Suitable for pots; choose a good quality potting mix to ensure good drainage, add a little organic fertiliser.

Botanical Name: Hemerocallis fulva
Family: Asphodelaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 30-70cm x 20-70cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant to the depth where the crown meets the roots. Spread roots evenly below soil. Water well to remove any air pockets. Space approximately 20-60cm apart.
Soil: Any well drained soil will do, but Daylilies will thrive in humus rich conditions.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants around four weeks for their roots to penetrate the surrounding soil and they should be watered every other day or daily during this period. Once established they are dry tolerant though will flower better with moisture in dry times.
Fertiliser: Fertilise in spring each year with a well balanced fertiliser.
Flowering Time: Late spring to early autumn with the main show through summer.
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and foliage to tidy, you should be able to do this with a sharp tug.
Notes: Thriving Daylilies will grow into large clumps after a few years. They can be divided as required in spring or autumn. Use a garden fork to dig them out, shake off any excess dirt and make sure that you have a crown with a root system cut with a sharp knife. Trim off the foliage to about 10cm and remove any dead or damaged roots. It is best to replant soon after.

Botanical Name: Dianthus barbatus
Family: Caryophyllaceae
Plant Type: Semi Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 40-50cm x 30-35cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pots with roots spread evenly below the soil, space 25-35cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. In pots use a good quality potting mix and add some slow release fertiliser.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. Protect from afternoon sun in warm climes.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -5C. If you get down to much more than that they are best as annuals and you should wait to plant until spring.
Water: Water to establish, it takes 4-6 wks for the plant roots to access the moisture in the soil, then only if rainfall is low during active growth. Keep pots just moist year round – they may need daily watering in summer depending on their position. They don’t like winter wet.
Fertiliser: Fertilise well during spring and summer to encourage healthy growth and plenty of flowers. You can use any complete fertiliser you have.
Flowering Time: Spring to winter
After Flower Care: Regular cutting of flowers promotes healthy growth and perennial propensities – you can do this for vases or just dead head as they finish. Add some fertiliser during the flowering season for best blooms. Cut back to half in autumn, after the flowering has finished and add some mulch, they will be back to blooming in no time.
Notes: Flowers are long lasting and excellent for vases and posies. Divide every few years to increase stock. They won’t set seed so flower for a long time.

Botanical Name: Dierama pulcherrimum
Family: Iridaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 100-150cm x 60cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below soil surface. Space 40-60cm apart, closer for a more immediate effect. Gently does it, be wary of brittle roots.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich well drained, ideally not left in winter water.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, at least six hours a day to flower well, even over winter.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -5C
Water: Water to establish then only if rainfall is low. Flowers better with consistent moisture but can survive dry without thriving.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser in spring, they aren’t heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Summer to Autumn
After Flower Care: Do not cut back the foliage, simply pull out any browned leaves. If you cut the foliage back the corms don’t like it and it will slow the plant’s growth.
Notes: Suitable for growing in containers, if they are well looked after over spring and summer with plenty of water. They can get overcrowded (indicated by a decreasing amount of flowers). When this occurs dig up the corms after flowering, and divide them into smaller clumps. Care must be taken during this process as the roots are very brittle. They will not flower in the year that they have been dug as they resent disturbance, but will return the following year.

Botanical Name: Echinacea purpurea
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous Perennial
Size (HxW): 40-60cm x 40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below. Space 20-60cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. Adaptable to poor soils.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering to penetrate and gain access to the surrounding soil. Keep moist during the first growing season. Dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: You can cut off any initial spent flowers to encourage more, or just leave them on, up to you they will still produce a good amount of flowers. You can leave the second round of flower/seed heads to stand for their ornamental value and for the birds. Then cut back hard late winter or early spring to allow the new growth to shine.
Notes: Flowers last well in a vase. Protect new growth from slugs and snails. Divide in autumn as they become overcrowded, every four years or so.

Botanical Name: Eupatorium cannabinum
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 90-120cm x 60-70cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant where the roots meet the stem with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Space 60-90cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. Suitable for clay
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then keep moist in active growth. In full sun they can take a lot of moisture so it is ok to plant them by a pond - just not in the water.
Fertiliser: Apply a general purpose fertiliser once the plant starts to shoot in spring.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Flowers are suitable for picking. When left on the plant, you can allow the seed heads to stand all winter long, then cut back early spring to allow the new foliage to shine.
Notes: Dig and divide in spring every four or five years. Be patient they may be slow to emerge, but as the weather warms they will soon shoot. Protect new growth from slugs and snails.

Botanical Name: ‘Cafe Creme’: Digitalis lanata. ‘Berggold’, ‘Dalmatian’, ‘Pam’s Choice’, ‘Pink Gin’, ’Dalmatian Purple’, Silver Fox, ‘Dalmatian White’’: D. purpurea. ‘Foxlight Ruby Glow’, ‘Illumination Raspberry’: D purpurea x Isoplexis canariensis
Family: Scrophulariaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen perennial/biennial.
Size (HxW): See plant label
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same height as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. See plant label.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. Well drained is the most important element.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. In afternoon sun they will appreciate a little extra water and perhaps some mulch to keep them ship shape, or provide them a little protection.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate into the surrounding soil and access its moisture. Keep moist in active growth. Dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: Apply a liquid fertiliser two or three times during the growing period. Or add a pelletised slow release in spring.
Flowering Time: See plant label
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to both tidy and encourage more to grow. Leave the last of the season to seed and for the birds to enjoy. Of course with the added benefit of a few seedlings for you too*.
Notes: Contact with the sap may cause skin irritation and should be avoided, we recommend wearing gloves when pruning. Look out for aphids and control as required. Avoid powdery mildew by watering the soil, not the foliage and providing good air flow, remove affected foliage and treat as required.
Dalmatian plants flower for approx. 2 years, then they tend to lose vigour and should be taken out, but they even still they are cheaper and more rewarding than a bunch of flowers, and by that time, the next generation of seedlings will be coming through. Dalmatians will flower from seed in their first year. ‘Pam’s Choice’, ‘Cafe Creme’ and ‘Berrgold’ are biennial. * Digiplexis and ‘Goldcrest’ are sterile so will not set seed, they can be divided vegetatively as required. An advantage of the sterility is a much longer bloom show.

It is best to wait until the threat of frost has passed before planting.
Botanical Name: Gladiolus grandiflorus
Family: Iridaceae
Plant Type: Corm
Size (HxW): 1-2m x 10-15cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant the corms approximately 15-20cm deep and 15cm apart. Gladioli look great in dense clumps. Planting them a little deeper, to 20cm will help shore up the stem and reduce the need for staking. If you are planting a lot of them, why not dig a trench, add some manure, dig it through then toss your corms in on top, refill and water in. You can stagger/increase the flowering time by adding your bulbs at weekly intervals (see Notes).
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal. They tend to rot in boggy soils. If your soils are poor, prepared soil is best - to ‘prepare’ your soil, add lots of well-rotted animal manure or compost and potash to the soil prior to planting, this increases nutrients in the soil and can increase the quality of the flowers into the future and strong plants have less disease. Ideally work the manure through the soil 4-6 weeks before planting, digging deeply to ensure good drainage. Don’t worry if you miss the boat, just add some at the time of planting. If your soil is already humus rich don’t worry too much.
Aspect: Full sun. Protection from strong winds is also advisable - or add stakes.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Half hardy. Lift and store your corms over winter if you live in an area that receives hard frost, or give them a heavy mulch for protection in autumn.
Water: Water them in well to help activate the growth. Keep moist in active growth.
Fertiliser: Apply a fertiliser high in potash during flowering, this will help them to last longer and increase their flowering capability next season. If you want to DIY, a blend of mushroom compost (to sweeten), blood and bone (to feed) and potash (for flowers) is ideal. Or use a pre packed fertiliser of your choice.
Flowering Time: Summer. The timing is somewhat determined by planting dates.
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and foliage once it has yellowed.
Storage: If required, lift the corms once the foliage yellows (a month after flowering) - toss away the old, shrunken corms and keep the fresh new stock - smaller ones may take a year to bloom. Cut the foliage to within 5-6cm from the corm and allow them to dry thoroughly before storing in a cool, dry and airy spot. The corms can also be dusted with an insecticide before storage or soaked in pyrethrum - thrips must be dealt with prior to storing corms.
Notes: The corms can be planted on a staggered time line over one or two week intervals to create a continuous display of flowers over a longer period. The corms will flower approximately 90 -120 days after planting. (The warmer the weather, the quicker they are to start flowering).
During growth, keep an eye out for thrips, which will cause silver streaking in leaves and flower buds. It is a good idea to keep the area free of weeds which can act as hosts, try blasting them off with a hose, encourage their predators (you can order some of these online), neem oil can be used, or a pyrethrum spray. If plants have poor air flow, rust fungus may occur, remove affected foliage and in extreme cases control with your choice of fungicide.
Your cut flowers can last longest in a vase if cut when 1/3 are open, cut them at a diagonal angle so they better take up water and remove the top few green blooms which will just flop. When cutting allow around half a stem and the rest of the leaves to remain and feed the corm for next season.

Botanical Name: Helianthus angustifolia
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 150-240cm x 60-120cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly beneath the soil. See above for spacing.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil ideal.
Aspect: Full sun to part shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Tender
Water: Plants need around 4-6 weeks to establish, for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, so should be watered regularly over this time.
Fertiliser: A well balanced fertiliser in spring, and summer.
Flowering Time: Autumn
After Flower Care: You can remove spent flowers to tidy the plant and prevent self- seeding. Once flowering has finished and the plant starts to look tired (late autumn), cut stems back to about 10–20 cm above ground. This helps prevent diseases and keeps the plant neat over winter.
Notes: It can spread vigorously in suitable conditions. Watch for spreading and thin out if needed. Stake earlier in the season if the plant tends to flop.

Botanical Name: American Woodbine: Lonicera x americana. ‘Gold Flame’ and ‘Firecracker’: L. x heckrottii
Family: Caprifoliaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen climber.
Size (HxW): See plant label.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same depth as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface, space 1-5m apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil, not fussy.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, 4-6 hours sun for best blooms.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6wks for their roots to access the moisture in the surrounding soil, they should be regularly watered over this time. Then only if rainfall is low, dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: Add a well balanced fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Sprig to autumn
After Flower Care: After flowering, ornamental berries may be produced in autumn – these are often best after hot weather. ‘Gold Flame’; in cold climates, where they are semi evergreen, you can cut them back in early spring, they will quickly reshoot as the weather warms. Long established plants can become quite large, don’t fear, they respond well to pruning, so feel free to prune hard (back to 60cm). By the same token, if you don’t want them big, prune them to the size you want, preferably after flowering. ‘Floribunda’ is a shrub, ideally prune after ornamental berries to help keep the plants healthy and vigorous.
Notes: You can train the tendrils to grow on a fence or wall, through trees and shrubs, or over a trellis or pergola, let your imagination run wild. Ensure good air flow to avoid powdery mildew. ‘Gold Flame’ is not self twining, so you will need to tie the branches to the chosen support. The flowers are terminal (bloom at the ends of the stems), so be careful not to over prune.

Botanical Name: Mop Top: Hydrangea macrophylla. Pee Gee: H. paniculata ‘Runaway Bride’: H. hybrid.
Family: Hydrangeace
Plant Type: Deciduous perennial
Size (HxW): See plant label
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly beneath the soil. See plant label.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil ideal.
Aspect: Hydrangeas thrive in cool, moist areas which are sheltered from the hot summer sun and drying northerly winds, so a morning sun, with afternoon shade, or a filtered light position is best. In cool areas, they can take more sun, but will need more water.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Plants need around 4-6 weeks to establish, for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, so should be watered regularly over this time. Hydrangeas should be kept well watered whilst they are growing to ensure best blooms. Care should be taken in containers to keep them hydrated over summer. Drooping leaves mean your plant needs water.
Fertiliser: Add a complete fertiliser in autumn. Compost or aged manure will encourage growth, toss this around the roots and then add a mulch to encourage water retention over the warm months.
Flowering Time: Late spring to autumn
After Flower Care: To promote strong growth in any kind of Hydrangea, during the plant’s first few years, it is a good idea to remove only the flowering heads, from just above a strong bud then, as the plants establish, prune down to the bottom two sets of buds on stems that have flowered. Hydrangeas flower on new growth making it possible to give them a hard prune later in the season. Leave a few mature stems to help hold up the new growth.
Notes: After heavy rain, the flower stems may droop as they are so large and heavy, you can add a wire support to help with this. When cutting Hydrangeas put them into water as soon as possible. Some recommend bashing the end of the cut branch with a hammer first to encourage more water up the stem, others suggest boiling water for 30 seconds. We have found both to work quite well. For the Mop Top H. macrophylla types, you can manipulate the flower colour by adjusting the PH of the soil. Generally for coloured Hydrangeas, Acidic soils (6.0 or lower) will produce blue to lilac shades while Alkaline soils (7.0 and above) result in pinks. Yates make it easy with Hydrangea Pinking Liquid (Lime/Dolomite) and Hydrangea Blueing Liquid (Aluminium sulphate). Indoors keep away from heating and rejuvenate outdoors over winter dormancy.

Plant as soon as possible, as they do not like to overly dry out.
Botanical Name: ‘Tycoon’: Iris sibirica. ‘Alliteration’: I. pallida. ‘Tiramisu’: I. ensata.
Family: Iridaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous rhizome
Size (HxW): See plant label
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot, with the roots evenly spread below (rhizomes around 5cm below soil level). Space 20-40cm apart, closer for a more immediate effect, they will gradually multiply to form clumps.
Soil: Humus rich, moist soil. Will tolerate just about any soil type, and even cope in boggy conditions.
Aspect: Full sun
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy. They love frosts and will often flower best after a cold winter, though frost is not necessary for them to flower, they just won’t be as tall and floriferous. You could try the old frozen ice cream bucket of water overnight trick on them during July if you want to try growing them where you don’t get frost. Do this for one to two weeks.
Water: Water in to establish, (regular watering for the first four to six weeks, flowering can be aborted if they dry out), then only if rainfall is low during active growth. They will flower better with consistent moisture but will tough out dry conditions once established.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced, or a Camellia/ Azalea fertilser each autumn and spring for best flowering.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Cut back spent foliage as necessary to tidy. They can be left undisturbed for many years, however, if you wish to increase stock lift then divide in summer every three or four years. We recommend wearing gloves when dividing/handling rhizomes. Disturbance may reduce flowering that season. Remove spent flowers/seed pods to encourage plant growth.
Notes: The foliage will die back completely in late summer and re-shoot mid spring. Be patient waiting for new growth, as they will be totally dormant from autumn until mid spring.

Botanical Name: Anemone x hydrida
Family: Ranunculaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 50-100cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant where the roots meet the stem with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Space 30-50cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, moist, well drained soil ideal but they are adaptable.
Aspect: Morning sun to part shade. They want to be kept out of the hot afternoon sun.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish (this takes around four to six weeks of regular watering for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil), then ideally keep moist when in bloom though they become impressively dry tolerant.
Fertiliser: A well balanced fertiliser in spring, they aren’t heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Late summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Prune to tidy or you can leave the seed heads to stand through winter. It is a good idea to cut it back hard late winter or early spring to make way for the new growth, the foliage comes back pretty well straight away.
Notes: In the right conditions this plant will spread to form a clump. Dig and divide in autumn or spring as required. The foliage is semi evergreen, in cold climates it may become dormant, although it stays pretty evergreen here in the Dandenongs. Remove the seed heads once they form a cottony ball if you don’t want them to seed.

Plant as soon after arrival or they will begin to grow. Keep your bulbs cool in the refrigerator if you won’t be planting for a week or so.
Botanical Name: Lilium hybrid. ‘Flore Pleno’, ‘Tiger Babies’, ‘Splendens’: L. lancifolium. ‘Leichtlin’s Lily’: L. leichtlinii. ‘White Dragon: L. longiflorum.
Family: Liliaceae
Plant Type: Bulb
Size (HxW): 60-200cm x 20-30cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant the bulbs three times their height deep (around 15cm), with the ‘point’ facing up. Plant 20-30cm apart, closer for a denser clump. In pots, plant closely for a full display.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. It is a good idea to mulch in summer to help with water retention and deter weeds.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. Sunshine and shade in equal amounts is best; afternoon shade is preferable and they will tolerate more shade in warmer climates. The taller varieties will require protection from strong winds. Staking may be required.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water in to establish, then keep moist during active growth, they do not like to dry out and flowering will be affected.
Fertiliser: A well balanced fertiliser at the start of winter then after flowering.
Flowering Time: Summer. As a general guide; Asiatics early season, Tiger and Trumpet early to mid season, Orientals, Christmas and Regal mid to late season.
After Flower Care: Lilies are excellent cut flowers. Ideally, cut them about 1/3 down, so that the remaining 2/3 of the stem can be left to die off naturally (this helps with the development of the following year’s flowers). If you want to pick longer stems, it is not the end of the world, just try and leave some foliage for future bloom development. While they may not be their best next season, they bounce back pretty quickly.
Notes: Dig and divide every five years or so as they become overcrowded. It is a good idea to protect new growth from slugs and snails.

The pips come as a clump so they travel safely. On arrival you can divide them easily by gently pulling apart. Then plant them out individually into the garden. Soak them overnight prior to planting to give them a good start. Wash your hands after handling. These are a mix of first and second year pips, so year one may only be foliage and the following year flowers, those that will flower feel like a pea at the pip.
Botanical Name: Convallaria majalis
Family: Convallariaceae
Plant Type: Rhizomatous perennial
Size (HxW): 15-25cm x 10-30cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant the ‘pips’ (rhizomes) horizontally 3-7cm under the soil surface and space them 20cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist and well drained is ideal. They adore leaf matter and organic material, so if you can, add some prior to or at planting then top them up each autumn.
Aspect: Filtered Light. More sun is tolerated in cool zones and by established plants. Paradoxically we grow this crop in our paddock, where we have noticed that even though it is a part shade plant that loves humus rich soils, once it establishes, it will grow in full sun. In our paddock it is in volcanic soil and it grows out in the open.
Climate: Cool to Temperate
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water well to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate and access the moisture in the soil. Then keep moist in active growth (spring and summer).
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser late winter. They will also benefit from a yearly application of well-rotted animal manure and or leaf matter in winter.
Flowering Time: Spring
After Flower Care: In the first season the ‘berries’ that appear after flowering should be picked off so the plant growth is focused underground rather than on seeds. Remove spent flowers to tidy. Wait until foliage has yellowed before removing.
Notes: Keep protected from drying winds, aphids and slugs. Convallaria seem to thrive under eaves of the house or under other shrubs. If they are very comfortable in your garden they will begin to spread, if they go too far remove the crowns in autumn, pop them into a pot and bring them inside to perfume your home or give them away to friends. They are not invasive. Divide after 3 years or so to maintain flowering.

Botanical Name: Luculia gratissima
Family: Rubiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen Shrub
Size (HxW): 150-300cm x 150-300cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below the soil surface, space 150-300cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. The root zone should be kept cool. Tends to rot in boggy soils.
Aspect: Part shade, protect from frost and hot afternoon sun and too much wind which can ruin the flower show.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Tender
Water: Water to establish, this takes a month or more of regular watering, waiting for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, then you only need to worry if rainfall is low.
Fertiliser: A light application of a slow release/ liquid fertiliser in autumn is ideal. An organic mulch in winter will keep it very happy.
Flowering Time: Autumn to winter
After Flower Care: Pruning is minimal, best done in spring, after flowering, simply remove any unwanted growth or to control size. It won’t be bothered with a hard prune.
Notes: A lovely specimen plant or suitable for hedging.

Botanical Name: Argyranthemum frutescens
Family: Asteraceae/Compositae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 25-60cm x 20-60cm (smaller in a pot, a little bigger in the garden).
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below soil surface. See plant tag for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, moist, well drained. Roots tend to rot in boggy soils.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Half hardy, protect young plants and treat as annuals if you live in a hard frost area.
Water: Water to establish then only if rainfall is low.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser early spring.
Flowering Time: Spring to winter. In cool climates they usually stop blooming at frost. In warmer zones they will flower almost year round. If in pots protect from excessive winter wet to keep them blooming.
After Flower Care: Cut off spent flowers and remove dead and dying foliage to tidy and encourage more blooms. If they become too large, cut back to the wood in spring and they will soon re-shoot.
Notes: In frost prone areas wait until threat of frost has passed before planting in the garden. Pinch out new growth to encourage a more compact, well branched plant. Dead head regularly to promote more blooms. In very hot weather, flowering may wane unless you keep the water up to them. You can propagate by cuttings. Plants are giving but short lived and should be replaced every few years to maintain vigour.

Botanical Name: ‘Dropmore’: Nepeta x faassenii. ‘Nova Blue’: N. cataria. ‘Silver Catmint’: N. longipes
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): See plant label
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below the soil surface, space 60-80cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes 4-6 wks of regular watering, waiting for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, then you only need to worry if rainfall is low, they become impressively dry tolerant.
Fertiliser: A light application of a slow release/ liquid fertiliser in spring is ideal.
Flowering Time: See plant label
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to encourage more during the season. Or cut back by half after the first flower flush in December, then fertilise and water to enjoy repeat flowering into autumn. Cut back hard in winter to make way for fresh spring growth.
Notes: Flowers suitable for picking.

Botanical Name: Origanum hybrida
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 20cm x 40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil. Space 30-40cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal. Needs especially good drainage if you get a lot of winter wet.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -5C
Water: Water to establish, it takes plant roots 4-6 weeks to penetrate the surrounding soil and gain access to its nutrients. Dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: A light application in spring.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Plants can over winter in most climates, but in very cold areas they may be annuals. Late winter/early spring remove the old foliage and flowers to allow for the fresh new spring growth to shine.
Notes: Ornamental with great applications for edging, in pots, above retaining walls, in rockeries, on embankments, as a ground cover or as a spiller in a container or hanging baskets. The leaves are edible but not tasty.

Botanical Name: Penstemon digitalis
Family: Scrophulariaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen sub shrub
Size (HxW): 80-100cm x 40-60cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant to the same depth as in the pot. Space 30-45cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. They can rot if left to sit in water, so like their soil on the drier side. In pots, potting mix is perfectly drained so it’s hard to over water.
Aspect: Full sun to part shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water well to establish, 4-6 weeks of regular watering to allow the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil, then only if rainfall is low. Dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: A light application in spring is ideal, they aren’t heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Dead head regularly during the bloom season to promote more blooms. It is a good idea to prune them back to 30cm above the woody base winter/early spring to promote healthy growth. When the new stems begin to bloom you can cut the old to the ground.
Notes: It is a good idea to protect new growth from slugs and snails. Dig and divide in spring as required. Suitable for pots or cutting. They may take a season to settle in and flower at their best.

Botanical Name: Paeonia lactiflora. Itoh: P. hybrid. Tree: P. suffruticosa.
Family: Paeoniaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 50-120cm x 40-90cm. Tree: 30- 150cm x 30-150cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant with the rhizome lying across with the eyes approximately 2-3cm under the soil surface in a pre prepared position (see ‘Soil’). Plant at least 60cm apart. If you plant too deeply you will get plenty of leaves, but no flowers. If you have one in the garden, and it is lack lustre, this may be the reason – you can raise it during dormancy, taking care with the delicate root system.
Soil: Prepare the soil with loads of well rotted organic matter to at least 40cm in depth. Ideally the organic matter would be a couple of handfuls of chicken manure combined with a handful Potash. You should also add plenty of Dolomite lime when planting. They are endemic to limestone soils, so it is impossible to give them too much. Also lime doesn’t dissolve easily, so the more the merrier. Lime is non toxic so won’t damage your soil and won’t spread laterally to bother neighbouring plants. Dig over well and leave for one week prior to planting. This will ensure plenty of food as well as good drainage. Peonies require loads of feeding to flower at their best.
Aspect: Full sun to afternoon shade is ideal, in too much shade they won’t flower well. Be careful with the roots when planting they are easily damaged. Too much shade and they will be slow to grow and become leggy. Ideally they should be in an open sunny spot, away from the competition of tree roots (they are hungry and don’t like to fight for nutrients) and with protection from strong winds.
Climate: Cool to Temperate – they need cold winters to flower well (3-5C).
Frost: Hardy although new growth may be marked by late, heavy frosts, they are easily pruned off when the weather warms.
Water: Keep well watered during the growing season. It is a good idea to mulch around the plant to help with water retention. They don’t like to sit in water over winter – who does – so the soil should drain well. They will become dry tolerant once they established.
Fertiliser: Fertilise twice a year, autumn and spring – an easy way to remember is Anzac Day and Melbourne Cup Day. Apply Blood and Bone/Dynamic Lifter and Potash each year. You should add at least a few handfuls of lime every year too to keep them happy and healthy. They are doing much of their feeding when there is no growth above ground.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer. Peony flowers are big, so they may need support (rings/stakes), especially the double varieties. It will also help to best show off the blooms.
After Flower Care: Cut off any spent flowers and foliage to tidy. Prune hard in autumn, after the flowers have finished and the foliage has yellowed, they will reshoot in spring. Remove fallen leaves to avoid disease issues. Tree Peonies: Once the plant is established, after a few years, prune out the soft growth and leave around 6-10 of the best branches to create an open structure, allowing sunlight to penetrate and good air flow.
Notes: Mulching in spring will help protect the root system from heat stress, especially in dry summers. They require a cool root system. They may not flower in the first few years as they are busy growing their extensive root system (they have a lot of flowers to provide for in the future) this is completely normal, enjoy the foliage in the meantime and don’t forget to feed them. Once your Peonies are mature enough to flower you might have the scissors ready and raring to go. But you should take it easy for the first year or two to give the plants as much leaves as possible to invigorate and establish the root system (which can grow up to 90cm and weight 30kg or more). It is a good idea to protect new shoots from slugs and snails. When required, dig and divide early autumn. If you are computer savvy, there are lots of Youtube videos on this if you want a practical demonstration, but basically use a knife to cut the roots into pieces – each piece should have three growing shoots or eyes. Good air circulation is important as it prevents disease. Black spots or grey mould are signs of Botrytis which thrives in cool, damp conditions without good air flow. Remove any affected parts of the plants and dispose of them.
Tree Peonies: First flowers may not be true to size and colour, do not be disappointed, allow one or two seasons for them to develop. In autumn it is good practice to remove the fallen leaves from underneath the plant to avoid disease – they may contain mildew spores which will endure and cause damage in spring. Remove old or broken branches as required.

Botanical Name: Jarava ichu
Family: Poaceae
Plant Type: Semi evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 60-90cm x 60-90cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same height as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below. See above for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full sun
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish (this takes around six weeks of regular watering) Once established drought tolerant.
Fertiliser: Minimal fertiliser required, too much encourages floppy foliage.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: To tidy as required.
Notes: In late winter or early spring: Cut back old foliage to 10–20 cm. This encourages fresh, tidy new growth. Don't cut too early — old foliage helps protect the crown.

Botanical Name: Philadelphus hybrids
Family: Hydrangeaceae
Plant Type: Deciduous shrub
Size (HxW): 150cm x 150cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same depth as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Space 1-2m apart, closer for a more immediate effect.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich well drained soil.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 wks of regular watering, then keep moist in active growth. Keep just moist in winter.
Fertiliser: A liquid fertiliser monthly when in bloom will help to extend the season.
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
After Flower Care: Prune lightly after flowering to tidy – cutting back to a strong leaf bud – one branch in four to ground level is a general guide, they flower on old growth. Remove unwanted and unhealthy branches after flowering. NB that is after flowering. Winter pruning is only done if they become leggy and wayward, a hard prune at this time will promote more bushy growth, but you will be sacrificing the flowers for that season.
Notes: Use for hedging, as a specimen or in borders. Keep an eye out for Aphids and treat by hand or with your choice of insecticide.

Botanical Name: Solanum tuberosum
Family: Solanaceae
Plant Type: Tuber
Size (HxW): 50-80cm x 50cm
First things first: To grow potatoes, begin with ‘chitting’; put your potatoes into a warmish, bright, but shaded dry area – such as a windowsill. Sprouting takes longer in cool weather. The potato will sprout from the eyes, when these reach 1-2cm, they can be planted. In the case of these purchased ‘seed potatoes’, the eyes may already be formed so they can be planted straight away. You may cut the large potatoes into parts – so long as each part has one or two eyes/sprouts, if you do this pop them in the shade for a week or so to dry out.
Depth & Spacing: Plant into a prepared bed (it is best to add compost/well rotted manure a few weeks prior to planting). Dig the soil over to 40cm. Dig holes to 15cm deep, spacing 70cm apart. Add an organic fertiliser and dig soil over to around 5cm. Place the tubers in the furrow with eyes facing upwards, cover with soil and water in. Once the plant has reached 20cm tall, then cover it to 2/3 the height, this is called mounding or hilling. This will need to be done 2-3 times during the growing season. This process increases the number of tubers (potatoes) produced and stops them turning green and toxic in the suns light.
Soil: Fertile, well drained soil is best. The better the soil, the better the crop. Do not add lime to the soil, a high lime content may develop scab or fungal problems. Also ensure any manure added is well rotted.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. 6 hours a day of sun is needed.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy. Severe frost will set growth back, mulch to protect.
Water: Water to establish, keep moist during active growth.
Fertiliser: Add fertiliser prior to planting (see ‘Soil’ above).
Flowering Time: Spring to summer
Harvest: Harvest your potatoes around 3-4 weeks after flowering has finished for smaller or ‘New Potatoes’. For ‘Old Potatoes’ wait until the foliage has died back completely.
Notes: If your potatoes are affected by disease the plants should be disposed of in the garbage or burnt. There are lots of ways to grow potatoes. Here are a couple of options: Potatoes in a Bag – use a Hessian sack or similar. Add 15cm of compost and slow release fertiliser to the base of the sack (or potting mix). Put around 6 seed potatoes on top of this mix and cover with a further 10-15cm of the mix/potting medium then mulch with around 3cm of straw and water well. Keep the mix moist. Once the stem growth reaches 20cm, roll the bag up, adding more potting mixture until just around 5cm of the leaves are exposed. Continue until the bag is fully unravelled. Then allow the plant to grow and flower as usual before harvesting (see above). OR you could try the ‘no dig’ approach by tossing your tubers where you want them to grow then mounding the soil on top, as above. The roots will find their own way down, just ensure you mulch well. 1kg seed potatoes will produce on average a 10kg harvest. Harvest all your potatoes each year. Grow potatoes in a different spot each year to ensure your stock remains disease free.

Botanical Name: Rudbeckia fulgida
Family: Asteraceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 30-40cm x 30-40cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same height as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below. See above for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full Sun to Semi Shade – it needs at least six hours a day to flower well.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish (this takes around six weeks of regular watering), then keep moist during active growth.
Fertiliser: They love humus rich conditions so organic matter is important. A general purpose fertiliser spring/summer will keep them blooming.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Dead head regularly to increase bloom time. Remove spent flowers and foliage to tidy OR allow the seed heads to stand over winter for ornamental enjoyment and the birds. Cut back foliage to the ground once it has yellowed.
Notes: Beware of slugs and snails when the plant is young. They are rhizomatous, dig and divide as they outgrow their space and to keep their vigour. Plant so it is protected from strong winds or you may need to stake. Any seed that takes won’t be true to type. You can pinch early in the season for shorter plants.

Botanical Name: ‘Velour Pink’, ‘Velour Purple’, ‘Velour White’, ‘Santa Barbara’: Salvia leucantha. ‘New Dimension Blue’, ‘New Dimension Rose’: S. sylvestris
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): See plant label
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread evenly below soil surface. See plant label for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. Tolerant of poor soils.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy – but if you are somewhere with hard frost it is best to wait until spring to plant.
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then occasionally if rainfall is low. The flowers will last longer if plants are kept relatively moist during the bloom season, though they will tough out dry conditions once the plats are established.
Fertiliser: A light application of slow release fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: See plant label
After Flower Care: Prune lightly after initial flower flush, fertilise and you should have a second flush in a few weeks that lasts into autumn. OR dead head regularly over the flowering season. Then cut back after blooming, generally in early spring (before new growth emerges) to encourage perennial tendencies and bushy growth.
Notes: Flowers suitable for picking. Divide as required every 2-3 years. The aromatic foliage attracts bees, butterflies and birds.

Botanical Name: Saxifraga x arendsii
Family: Saxifragaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 15-25cm x 20-25cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil, see above for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Full Sun to Semi Shade
Climate: Cool to Temperate
Frost: Half Hardy
Water: Like to be consistently moist but never waterlogged.
Fertiliser: Light feeders, apply a small amount of fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Spring
After Flower Care: Lightly trim or shear the plant after flowering. Maintains its compact cushion shape and encourages fresh growth.
Notes: Generally, frost hardy. Main risk is wet soil causing rot. Good drainage is essential.

Botanical Name: Eryngium planum
Family: Umbelliferae
Plant Type: Semi Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 40-70cm x 45cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread below soil surface, space 30-50cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. They are tolerant of excessive lime, acid, gravel and poor soils but won’t tolerate wet boggy sites.
Aspect: Full sun to light shade – you need a good dose of sun for the best colouring.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then only if rainfall is low.
Fertiliser: A light application of a well balanced fertiliser early spring, they aren’t heavy feeders and too much can result in lanky plants.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers to encourage more, they stand for a long time.
Notes: Cut back hard if foliage becomes untidy in winter/early spring. Good cut flowers and suitable blooms for drying. Seed can be collected for sowing.

Botanical Name: ‘Blue Pearl’, ‘Dynamite’: Sedum hybrids. ‘Aizoon Stonecrop’: S. aizoom. ‘Postman’s Pride’: S. telephium subsp. maximum.
Plant Type: Semi Evergreen Perennial
Size (HxW): 20-60cm x 20-60cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil, see above for spacing.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal. If the soil is too rich they may flop.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade. In too much shade they may stretch and slump.
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish (plants will take around four weeks for their roots to penetrate the surrounding soils), then you will only need to water if rainfall is low, dry tolerant.
Fertiliser: Unless your soil is really poor, it isn't required, they aren't heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: You can remove the spent flowers, but we think it is best to let them to stand into winter where they will remain ornamental to the end. Cut it back in early spring with the new growth.
Notes: You can pinch to control the height in early Dec., it will delay the flowering but you will get more, smaller blooms. Keep an eye out for aphids and remove as needed. Divide every 6-10 years as required.

The old adage is to plant on the shortest day and harvest on the longest as they take 90-120 days to mature. In warmer areas they can be planted and harvested a bit earlier.

Botanical Name: Red/Gold: Allium oschaninii. Banana/Potato Onion: A. cepa
Family: Liliaceae
Plant Type: Bulb
Size (HxW): 40-60cm x 20-40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant them pointy end up so the bulb is just below the soil, space 20cm apart. Ideally ensure the area is kept free of weeds (they can attract pests and deprive the plants of nutrients).
Soil: Well drained, humus/nutrient rich. If you have a clay soil you can lighten it with organic matter (manure isn’t recommended as it is high in nitrogen – too much foliage focus and it can produce softer bulbs reducing the storage after harvest). If you have sandy soil, it is a good idea to add some organic matter to increase nutrients and to help water retention. For those of you who take a scientific approach, a PH of 6.5-7.0 will get the very best production.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Because of their shallow root system shallots require weekly watering to maintain soil moisture for optimal yields. To help reduce water requirements and maintain moisture levels you can mulch.
Fertiliser: Use a fertiliser high in phosphate and potassium. Because they are heavy feeders it should be applied regularly – see directions on fertiliser packaging, 5-10-10 (NPK) is best.
Harvest Time: Early summer, before flowering, when the tops begin to fall over. If left in too long they may begin a second growth and bulb size will decrease markedly. When dug, allow to dry (2-3wks on a cake cooling rack or similar) and then clean and separate bulbs. Store in a cool, dry place or hang up in open weave bags. Don’t leave the bulbs to naturalise in the ground as this will result in poor harvests and encourages pests.
After Flower Care: Remove any flowers that form as they limit bulb growth, see above.
Notes: We recommend crop rotation. In case of thrip, spray (organic option is a soapy water spray) – thrip usually come in on the hot north winds. Also watch out for root rot, caused by poor drainage. Slow growth and pale green foliage is an indication of phosphate deficiency. Poor bulb form, light green foliage tipped with brown is a sign of potassium deficiency. Bulbs can be stored for up to 12 months. Ideally each bulb should reproduce 6-12 bulbs in a season. You could companion plant with lettuce, cabbage, beets, carrots, mint, thyme, sage, strawberries and tomatoes. They shouldn’t be teamed with beans or peas.

Botanical Name: Leucanthemum x superbum
Family: Asteraceae/Compositae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial/semi evergreen
Size (HxW): 30-90cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots below soil surface. Space 30-60cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy
Water: Water to establish, this takes 4-6 wks of regular watering, then only if rainfall is low.
Fertiliser: A well balanced fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Late Spring to autumn
After Flower Care: Dead head regularly to encourage more blooms. Remove any dead flower stalks and cut back whole plant after flowering as its fading in winter.
Notes: Divide by root division at any time of the year it’s not in bloom. Flowers are excellent for picking and last well in a vase.

Botanical Name: Curcuma alismatifolia
Family: Zingiberaceae
Plant Type: Rhizomatous Perennial
Size (HxW): 30-60cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: If you are potting, use a decent size pot, their rhizomes multiply laterally so 20cm or more is ideal to begin.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil is ideal.
Aspect: Filtered Light. Shelter from cold and or drying winds.
Climate: Cool to Tropical
Frost: Tender
Water: Water well to establish (for around 4-6 weeks to allow their roots time to penetrate the surrounding soil) then keep moist in active growth. They have underground rhizomes that store water. In pots more watering may be required as potting mix is perfectly drained.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser late spring with the emerging foliage. Allow the leaves to senesce naturally as they will fuel the rhizomes for next year’s display. In the garden mulch well to help with water retention.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and browned foliage to tidy.
Notes: Winter dormant, can be left in the pot, begin watering again in late winter/spring. Divide as required in summer.

Botanical Name: Tulbaghia violacea
Family: Amaryllidaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 30-60cm x 30cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Space plants 20-30cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. They are impressively adaptable but loathe winter wet.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Sub Tropical
Frost: Hardy to -5C
Water: Water in to establish, this can take 4-6 weeks of regular watering, then you only need worry if rainfall is low over summer heat.
Fertiliser: They aren’t heavy feeders, a little tomato fertiliser (or similar) in spring will keep them blooming.
Flowering Time: Late spring to winter
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers and foliage to tidy.
Notes: Useful along edges, borders, rock gardens, pots as a ground cover. Foliage and flowers are edible. Divide in spring as required. Suitable for pots.

Botanical Name: Fragaria x ananassa
Family: Rosaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 20-30cm x 20-30cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant with the crown just below soil surface with roots spread evenly below. Space 45cm apart in rows
Soil: Humus rich, well drained soil, slightly acidic to neutral. Improve soil conditions by adding plenty of organic compost and well rotted animal manure (not chicken it is a bit alkaline - they like an acid soil, PH 6-6.5). Use a well balanced fruit and vegetable fertiliser.
Aspect: Full sun in cooler climates. Plant in a semi shade position in warmer climates.
Climate: Although strawberries perform best in cool climates, some varieties perform well in warmer climates. They can be grown pretty much anywhere as long as the micro climate and the cultivar is right.
Frost: The plants can be covered with hessian if you wish to protect the first flowers from frost damage otherwise the plant is frost hardy.
Water: Strawberries don’t like to dry out, they appreciate constant moisture, especially when they are producing fruit. If you’ve used plastic sheeting (see below), water slowly so the water penetrates through the holes, a trickle system is ideal.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fruit and veg fertiliser in spring with the flowers.
Fruiting Time: Summer to autumn. Usually 4-6 weeks depending on varieties.
Fruit Care: Cut off any runners that are produced during summer to encourage more fruit production. Pests/Diseases: Certified virus free stock (all Tesselaar strawberries are certified) is generally trouble free. However, if any sign of mildew occurs then spray with a fungicide (brew up a natural one from the internet or ask for one at your local nursery). You may also need to protect your fruit against birds, snails and other insects.
Notes: When planting you can cover mounds of soil with a black polythene sheet, which can be anchored by burying the sides into the soil. Cut small holes into the plastic and plant in these. The benefit of the plastic is to suppress weeds, reduce runners, keep the fruit clean and hasten ripening by keeping the soil warm. It is best to avoid growing Strawberries where tomatoes or potatoes have been growing as are affected by the same diseases.

Botanical Name: Teucrium marum
Family: Lamiaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 30cm x 30-40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant where the roots meet the stem with the roots spread below the soil surface. Space 30cm apart.
Soil: Well drained, moderately fertile or sandy soils preferred. In very rich soils they may become leggy.
Aspect: Full sun
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water in well, this takes 4-6 weeks of regular watering, they are then dry tolerant once established.
Fertiliser: A light application of a general purpose fertiliser in spring while establishing, they are not heavy feeders.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Prune moderately after flowering to maintain tidy, compact growth.
Notes: T. marum responds well to pruning, can be shaped into balls/hedges or allowed to grow as nature intended and bloom to its heart’s content. The flowers pick well and can be dried.

Botanical Name: Purple Top: Verbena bonarienses. ‘Polaris’ and Rigid: V. rigida.
Family: Verbenaceae
Plant Type: Short lived perennial (seed is viable)
Size (HxW): Purple Top: 60-200cm x 30-60cm. ‘Polaris’ and Rigid: 30-60cm x 30-50cm.
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot, space 30-60cm apart.
Soil: Moderately fertile to humus rich, well drained soil. Verbenas are tolerant of poor soils.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy, if you get hard frost it is ideal to mulch in winter.
Water: Water to establish, this takes around 4-6 wks of regular watering, then only if rainfall is low.
Fertiliser: Apply a well-balanced fertiliser in spring, then mulch well.
Flowering Time: Late spring to autumn
After Flower Care: Remove spent flowers as required. Cut back to the ground once the foliage begins to wane or at the start of spring to allow new growth to shine.
Notes: Good in landscapes and containers. Keep an eye out for slugs, aphids and thrips. Flowers are suitable for picking. Seeds are viable, let them fall to ensure future generations, or sow them separately.

Botanical Name: Veronica longifolia. ‘Purpleicious’: V. hybrid
Family: Plantaginaceae
Plant Type: Herbaceous perennial
Size (HxW): 40-60cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with roots spread below soil surface. Space 30cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. Adaptable to most soils as long as they are well drained.
Aspect: Full sun to semi shade, they will need at least six hours to flower well.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to access the moisture in the surrounding soil, then keep moist during active growth, dry tolerant once established. Tends to rot in poorly drained soils.
Fertiliser: Apply a well balanced fertiliser in summer with the flowers.
Flowering Time: Summer to autumn
After Flower Care: Dead head/ remove spent flowers regularly to keep them blooming into autumn.
Notes: Try planting at the edge of a garden bed, in rockeries or under trees. Suitable for pots. Veronicas can also be grown from firm tip cuttings taken from late spring until early autumn.

Botanical Name: Erysimum hybrids
Family: Brassicaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen Perennial
Size (HxW): 45-55cm x 45-55cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil. Space 40-70cm apart.
Soil: Well drained, humus rich is ideal but not too fussy. They don’t prosper in heavy clay.
Aspect: Full sun to Semi Shade
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Fully hardy to -15C
Water: Water to establish, it takes plants 4-6 wks of regular watering for their roots to penetrate the surrounding soil. Keep moist during active growth.
Fertiliser: A slow release fertiliser in spring and summer to keep them blooming.
Flowering Time: Spring to autumn
After Flower Care: Remove spent flower heads regularly, to encourage more blooms – cut them right back at the base. Or, in summer, cut back hard when the first flowering wains, give it an all over trim, fertilise then water in to encourage a second flush. Both ways have their advantages, one is quick and easy the other precise but light work – it depends how often you can get out into the garden.
Notes: Flowers great for picking. Plant in rockeries, beds, borders or en masse. An excellent option for combination plant with tulips or other spring bulbs. A 10-20cm container is the ideal size for one plant.

Botanical Name: Helleborus x hybridus
Family: Ranunculaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 30-50cm x 30-50cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at the same level as in the pot with the roots spread evenly below the soil surface. Plant 30-50cm apart.
Soil: Humus rich, moist, well drained soil is ideal. You could dig through some rotted compost or leaf matter if you really want to spoil them.
Aspect: Semi shade to full shade. Flowers will be better in semi shade/bright light. Too much sun and the leaves can scorch, too much shade and they are unlikely to bloom.
Climate: Cool to Mediterranean
Frost: Hardy
Water: Water to establish, it will take around 4-6wks for the roots to penetrate the surrounding soil and they should be regularly watered until then. Once established they become dry tolerant.
Fertiliser: Add a top dressing of leaf mould, compost and a well balanced fertiliser in spring and autumn. If below deciduous trees nature should take care of this for you! A nice sprinkling of lime is also appreciated.
Flowering Time: Winter to spring
After Flower Care: Cut off any untidy or dying leaves and flowers. The flowers will naturally set seed at a slow pace, the plants are easily shared, or can be left to naturalise and they will gradually form a nice colony.
Notes: An annual pruning of all the old leaves in autumn will encourage new healthy leaves and enable the flowers to shine. These plants may not flower in the first year, but once established they prefer to be left alone which makes them ideal for busy gardeners.

Botanical Name: Schlumbergera truncata
Family: Cactaceae
Plant Type: Evergreen perennial
Size (HxW): 30-40cm x 30-40cm
Depth & Spacing: Plant at same level as in the pot, space 10-40cm apart, closer for a more immediate effect.
Soil: Ensure you plant in a good quality, well drained cactus and succulent potting mix. Adding a little peat moss for acidity is beneficial. They are naturally epiphytic so good drainage is vital. They usually grow in amongst rocks or tree branches.
Aspect: Bright light is ideal, with protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as under a patio or even indoors. The leaves will turn yellow if they are getting too much sun. If you really want to spoil them, pop them outside in a shady spot for summer and bring them indoors when flowering in autumn and winter for a bit of colour.
Climate: Cool to Tropical
Frost: Keep protected from severe frosts.
Water: Water well, then allow the soil to become dry on top before watering again. Ideally water the potting mix rather than the plant. You are more likely to kill them with kindness than neglect they don’t like wet feet and tend to rot. If the base of the plant rots it will no longer have access to nutrients and the plant will die.
Fertiliser: Apply a diluted liquid fertiliser spring/summer, or a slow release fertiliser in spring.
Flowering Time: Autumn to winter. Ideal flowering conditions are bright, filtered light with short days and long, cool nights (11-13 hours of darkness, including bright artificial light). Buds may drop if it doesn’t get the darkness needed, the temperatures are too high or the soil too dry.
After Flower Care: Remove any spent flowers or foliage to tidy.
Notes: Plant in a hanging basket or pots for a dramatic display. Allow pot to become overcrowded before potting on. Flower colour can be affected by temperature, if it gets very cold before the buds open the colouring is likely to be different. As the temperatures change so too the subsequent flowers.

The basics of rose care are simply:
1. Keep the plants moist at all times, but never allow the roots to sit in water.
2. Feed generously and frequently.
3. Keep pests to a minimum (this is usually not a problem if you start with a strong variety, fertilise and water).
4. Prune back once a year, keep the area weed free and ensure 4-6 hours of sun per day.

When your rose arrives
1. Submerge the roots in lukewarm water for 12-24 hours. If you can’t plant soon after arrival, leave the plants in the shade and lightly sprinkle water on the roots every 2-3 days. Never let the roots dry out.
2. If you can’t plant in the final location immediately, temporarily plant into containers and keep moist.

Spacing
Traditional roses are spaced 75-90cm apart. Climates have an affect on rose planting, e.g. in warmer climates allow more space.

Soil: Loamy soils are ideal. Roses will grow in heavy top soils (if well drained) and sandy soils (if kept watered and fed more frequently). For roses to thrive, good drainage is critical.

Planting your roses
Choose a site with a minimum of 4-6 hours of sun per day and a well drained soil.
1. Dig a hole large enough to easily fit the roots of the plant and deep enough that the base of the plant will be just above the soil.
2. Mix some rose food/dynamic lifter into the soil prior to back filling the hole (follow the packet’s recommended dose).
3. Hold the plant in place and back fill the hole. Tread the soil reasonably firmly and leave a basin at the base of the plant to help with watering.
4. Soak the soil with at least one or two buckets of water. You can add some seaweed tonic to help the rose settle in.

Mulching
Roses love mulch. A 5-7 cm layer of mulch stops weeds, evaporation of water and helps keep the roots cool.

Pruning
Why we prune roses: The main aim of pruning is to remove the old wood (that will no longer flower well) and encourage the development of young, vigorous and healthy stems. Best done June to July whilst the plants are dormant.

How hard should you prune?
Hard pruning: For newly planted roses/to rejuvinate neglected plants. Cut stems to only 3 or 4 buds. It results in larger, but less blooms.
Moderate pruning: Stems are cut back to half their length, recommended for all established roses.
Light pruning: Stems are cut back to 2/3 their length, so that the main stems are merely tipped. Good method for vigorous varieties. Light pruning generally results in a profusion of flowers.

Tips for picking rose blooms
1. Avoid picking in the first year.
2. Never take more than 1/3 of the stem so the bush remains productive and shapely.
3. Use a sharp blade and always cut to an outward facing bud.
4. If the bush isn’t growing vigorously remove the flowers but no leaves.
5. Pick early in the morning - moisture and sugar levels are high.
6. Immerse in warm water and re-cut stems under water.
7. Remove all thorns and foliage that will sit below the level of the vase.
8. For larger, prize winning blooms you can ‘disbud’ by removing all the side buds whilst they are still small. So the energy is concentrated on making the top bud larger - fewer, but larger, blooms.

Step by step pruning
1. Remove all dead, old or diseased stems.
2. Remove any old branches, cut the stem off at the bud union.
3. Cut out thin stems (less than pencil thickness) and branches that cross over each other or are crowding the centre of the plant.
4. Remove any shoots that are growing from behind the bud union (i.e. suckers).
5. Only healthy branches now remain. Prune these to the length required. Make cuts on a 45 degree angle about 1cm above an outward facing bud.

Strong rose varieties that are well cared for are generally trouble free. ‘Clever’ watering will help your roses stay healthy. It is ideal to water roses at their base so it does not remain wet which would make the environment conducive to foliage disease.

The below chart lists common rose problems and their solutions. The choice to apply the solution is yours. You may choose to ignore the problem and accept that some of the blooms will not be perfect. You may also find that many of these pests and diseases will come and go with changes in the weather and the seasons. In most cases we use nursery chemical options but there are plenty of organic recipes out there and they are always worth a try.

Aphids: Very small insects, usually green or black, mostly on the underside of leaves and on new growth. Solution: Thoroughly hose aphids off foliage; you can also apply an insect spray to control aphids (see your local nursery). Ensure you apply to beneath and above surfaces.
Thrip: Buds turn brown and do not open, or are distorted. Thrip are feeding on the plant’s juices. Solution: Control with a dust or spray, following the manufacturer’s directions. Spray directly onto opening buds.
Two-spotted mites: Leaves turn yellow, dry out, and in severe cases, fall off the plant. You’ll see tiny webs on the underside of the leaves. Solution: Hose the underside of the leaves with water for 3 days in a row to break the breeding cycle or ask your local nursery for a suitable spray. Ensure you coat the underside.
Caterpillars & leaf miners: The foliage becomes badly damaged with holes and are then rolled up by the insects. Solution: Remove all damaged foliage by hand or ask your local nursery for a solution to eradicate caterpillars and leaf miners.
Yellow leaves: Leaves turn yellow and may fall off. Could be caused by poor drainage. Solution: Bad weather can slow chlorophyll production, so wait it out. You might need to add some sand to the soil to improve drainage.
Inter-venial Chlorosis: Leaf pales and can turn yellow in between the veins. Usually not a serious problem, this can be caused by a lack of iron, nitrogen, manganese or magnesium. It might also indicate a bit of salt build up. Solution: Add chelated iron to the soil, or in severe cases, spray iron sulphate on foliage. Apply a solution of Epsom salts and water into the soil during the season.
Black Spot: Leaves have black spots and eventually fall off. All our roses are quite resistant so if you keep them healthy this is unlikely to occur. Solution: Pick off isolated leaves: control with spray or dust of your choice. Providing good air circulation and allowing foliage to dry out (refrain from over-head watering) will avoid this ailment.
Mildew: Leaves are distorted and covered with fine white fungus growth. It occurs in humid conditions. Solution: Remove affected leaves. Follow up with a regular spray or dust with your preferred chemical/organic option as per directions.
Dieback: Rose canes turn dark brown or black and die progressively down the stem. Solution: Always remove damaged part of the cane, and then follow with a rose spray of your choice. Avoid damaging the canes and seal the wounds after the cuts.